Sunday, May 22, 2011

picking a rabbit cage

Pet rabbits can be quite readily kept in cages in the home, with some freedom to run free in the house (after thoroughly rabbit-proofing, of course). Rabbits take fairly well to litter training so many people will let their bunnies run free in the home for at least part of the day. Even if your rabbit is thoroughly toilet trained and your house thoroughly rabbit proofed, a cage will act as a safe haven or nest, where the rabbit can retreat to rest.

There are a lot of cages sold for rabbits that aren't really ideal rabbit homes, though. Some are just too small, and many have wire floors, which may make cleaning easier but doesn't provide much comfort to the bunny

How Big
As usual, bigger is better. If your bunny will spend most of its time in a cage, then get the biggest cage that is practical in the home. As a general rule, the cage should be at least 4 times the size of the rabbit. A guide is 24" by 36" for smaller rabbits (less than 8 lbs.) or 30" by 36" for larger rabbits. A two story condo with a ramp joining the levels seems popular with rabbits too.
Cage Design
As a rule, rabbits take fairly well to being litter trained, so a solid floor is fine and not too difficult to clean. Many cages meant for rabbits are still made with wire floors over pull out pans, designed to make cleaning easier. However, wire floors (even those with very narrow spacing) can be uncomfortable and can cause sores or the hocks, so it is best to get a cage without wire floors. Wire floors should be covered with a piece of wood, or grass or sisal mats (grass mats are are nice to have in solid floored cages too, to vary the surface and provide traction).

The door to the cage should be about large enough to get a litter pan (and rabbit) through easily. A side door is probably best, as a top-opening cage makes getting the rabbit in and out a little harder (and it is best if the rabbit can get in and out on its own). The opening should have smooth edges, or plastic guard strips over the edges of the wires.
If you are handy, you can get fairly creative and construct your own cage. This allows a custom size to be designed. My own rabbit has a home made cage that is not ideal but works fairly well.
Bedding/Litter
Grass/sisal mats are a good idea for solid foored cages, too, to provide traction. Fleece blankets can also be provided. Pieces of carpet or towels also make nice mats, as long as your rabbit is not unravelling and eating them.
As for other pets, cedar and pine shavings should be avoided due to concerns over the aromatic oils they release. These oils have been shown to elevate the levels of some liver enzymes, which can affect the metabolism of drugs and other compounds. If wood shavings are used at all, better alternatives include hardwood shavings such as aspen. Straw or hay is a good bedding material for rabbits. For choices for the litter box, see the section on litter training.

Outdoors/Hutches
While living alone in a hutch outdoors is a lonely existence for a rabbit, a house rabbit that is allowed time outdoors will likely enjoy the change of scenery and fresh air. There are several dangers in the outdoors, including predators, weather, and toxicity from herbicides, pesticides or poisonous plants. Since predators present the largest danger at night, keeping a rabbit outdoors in a hutch at night is risky, even in a city (where predators may include raccoons, cats, dogs, coyotes, hawks and more). Many of these can injure or kill a rabbit without even getting into the cage. If a rabbit is to stay outside, it should at least be in an enclosed shed, garage, or some shelter that allows complete protection.
Many owners allow their rabbits outside in an enclosed pen made form a wood frame with wire on all sides (including top and bottom). This allows bunnies to spend time outside and munch on the grass (provided it is not treated with any herbicides, pesticides or other chemicals!) without burrowing out, and with protection from unwanted visitors. Shelter from sun, wind, rain, and other elements must also be provided.

basic ferret caresheet

basic chinchilla caresheet

basic bearded dragon caresheet

basic gerbil caresheet

rat care sheet

So, you want a pet rat, eh? Excellent choice! Rats seem to have a bad reputation because of their ancestors, but if more people were willing to give these lovable little guys a chance, that would very quickly change. Rats are affectionate, curious, and arguably as smart as a cat or a dog. (Why do you think the wild ones are so hard for the farmers to get rid of?) Rats are also very clean; you'll find them constantly grooming themselves, ridding themselves of every knot and tangle. Afterall, they need to look good for their adoring fans!
Housing
 Rats are a very active rodent and because of this, need a large cage to accomodate them. They love to climb, fall, roll around and chase each other. A glass aquarium would be a bad choice, as there is no way for the rat to climb, and the ventilation in an aquarium is terrible at best. We reccomend having at the very least,  a two storey hamster cage for one rat, and adding at least a tier for every additional rat you add. Feeret cages make wonderful rat cages, especially the models with the large tubes for them to run through. Keep in mind that if you house a male and female together, the inevitable will happen, and you'll end up with ''pinkies'' every 28 days or so. It's usually best to house two females together, as unfixed males often have a stronger musk than the females.  You should place the cage in a warm room away from windows, doors, vents, and hungry dogs or cats. Make sure that your cage is on a sturdy stand, because if your rats get loose, you're going to have a hard time catching them. (Unless you train them to come when they're called, which is a great idea regardless.)

Food & Water
Your rat should always have access to fresh, clean drinking water. It's best to use a bottle, as standing water attracts bacteria, feces and substrate, not to mention the fact that rats love to play in water, and will knock over any bowl you place in their cage. At least once a week, you'll need to clean your water bottle with a bottle brush, as sediment and bacteria build up in the bottle. For food, we reccomend a high protein extruded diet supplemented with fresh foods every so often. Rats have different protein requirements than hamsters, so if you do feed a hamster specific food, be sure to regularly supplement it with high protein foods like fish, cooked chicken, nuts and seeds, as well as vegetables and timothy hay or alfafa. Rats love to eat fatty foods that are bad for them (just like people), so  it's best to not feed those foods at all.


Bedding
There are a few options for bedding, though most are controversial. There are pros and cons to all types of beddings. Some can cause respitory problems when used long term, some are difficult to clean, and some are mistakenly eaten which can cause internal problems. The best substrates are those that are disposable, safe, and cheap.

Handling
Rats are friendly, and love to interact with their owners. They love to ride around on your shoulder, curl up in your pocket, and hide in your hooded sweatshirts. However, you should always begin any handling session by scooping up your rat with both hands, or picking it up by the base of the tail. NEVER grab your rat by the tip of the tail, as this is very, very painful for the rat and can cause permenant damage. Rats typically don't bite unless you smell like food, or you're hurting them.

pet hamsters

Hamsters are popular pets, and for good reason. They are easy to care, usually bond well with their owners, and on top of everything else, the are very cute! Learn about choosing a pet hamster, pet hamster care, and providing all the necessities for your hamster in this handy hamster care guide.

1. Is a Pet Hamster Right for You?

dwarf hamster courtesy MASH / Getty Images
Hamsters make good pets, but they are not the right choice for everyone. Learn about the pros and cons of hamster as pets before deciding if a hamster will be the right pet for you. You will also need to consider whether you want a larger Syrian hamster (always keep one to a cage), smaller dwarf hamsters (can be kept together), or even the less common but still lovely Chinese hamster. More about choosing a pet hamster:
  • Syrian Hamsters - other names include: golden hamsters, teddy bear hamsters (long hair), black bear hamsters (black coat)
  • Dwarf hamsters - includes dwarf Campbells Russian hamster, dwarf winter white Russian hamsters, and Roborovski hamsters
  • Chinese Hamsters


Hamsters are popular pets, and for good reason. They are easy to care, usually bond well with their owners, and on top of everything else, the are very cute! Learn about choosing a pet hamster, pet hamster care, and providing all the necessities for your hamster in this handy hamster care guide.

1. Is a Pet Hamster Right for You?

 
Hamsters make good pets, but they are not the right choice for everyone. Learn about the pros and cons of hamster as pets before deciding if a hamster will be the right pet for you. You will also need to consider whether you want a larger Syrian hamster (always keep one to a cage), smaller dwarf hamsters (can be kept together), or even the less common but still lovely Chinese hamster. More about choosing a pet hamster:
  • Syrian Hamsters - other names include: golden hamsters, teddy bear hamsters (long hair), black bear hamsters (black coat)
  • Dwarf hamsters - includes dwarf Campbells Russian hamster, dwarf winter white Russian hamsters, and Roborovski hamsters
  • Chinese Hamsters
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2. Choose a Healthy Hamster

 
Avoid taking home a hamster that shows common signs and symptoms of illness, stress, or other problems. While some problems can be hidden, anybody can do a quick check for some common signs of illness or other problems. While there are no guarantees, avoiding hamsters with obvious signs of problems gives you have the best chance of taking home a healthy hamster. Since many diseases are contagious, it is safest to also avoid hamsters with cage mates that seem ill. As an added bonus, you can also get clues about a hamster's temperament while doing a quick health check.

3. Choose a Hamster Cage and Supplies

 
Having a cage all set up and waiting for your hamster is a good way to smooth your hamsters' transition to his or her new home. There are a huge variety of cage styles and sized out there, and which one to choose can be confusing. My best advice: don't be fooled by the "coolness" of the cage, and make sure you choose one that is appropriate for the size of hamster you are choosing as well as one that is easy to clean. Also make sure you have cage accessories such as bedding, an exercise wheel, and a cozy sleep hut picked out. Here's some tips about choosing supplies:

4. Feeding Hamsters

 
There are also a lot of choices when it comes to hamster food, and not all are created equal. You main choice will be between a pelleted diet and a loose mix (see based) diet, and each has pros and cons. Your store-bought hamster diet can also be supplemented with a variety of healthy human foods and treat.

5. Handling Hamsters

 
Hamsters that haven't been handled may not be happy about being picked up and may try to bite you. It's important to remember hamsters that bite are not mean -- they are scared and defending themselves the best way they know how. It may take some patience (and possible some treats) to win your hamster's trust. More about handling hamsters:

6. Toys for Hamsters

 
Hamsters need to be able to chew, and they need to be able to exercise. Hamsters really were made to run, so a running wheel is a must. A hamster wheel must be large enough (many hamster wheels are more appropriate for dwarf hamsters than Syrian hamsters), safe (no wire wheels, please), and for your sanity, quiet. For chewing, a variety of wood structures and toys will help keep your hamster's teeth in shape. Hamsters also tend to like play tubes and tunnels and things they can climb on. For more about hamster toys and wheels see:

7. Hamster Breeding

 
I don't advocate the casual owner breeding their hamsters -- that is best left to breeders who concentrate on breeding for health and temperament. However, there are times when accidents happen, including hamsters that weren't separated soon enough at the pet store and come home pregnant. Also, knowing about hamster reproduction can help prevent accidents in the first place. Here's help if you find yourself with a pregnant hamster:

basic rabbit care sheet

What do I need for my pet bunny rabbit?Now that you have decided on a pet rabbit you should have all supplies necessary before bringing it home. A bunny with a safe home, the correct food, and appropriate furnishings will be a happy and healthy pet. This care sheet will guide you in having everything you need.

Cage and Habitat
You will need a
cage that is at least four times the size of your rabbit or an outdoor hutch at least 30 x 36 x 20 inches. Avoid wire mesh flooring and don’t use glass cages or aquariums. Always go with the biggest cage possible.
Hay or straw is needed as a nesting area for outside rabbits.
A litter box and litter for indoor rabbits. Paper based litter works best and do not use clumping litter.
A water bottle or water bowl. Water bottles are easier to maintain.
Food bowl for pellets and a feeder for hay.
Your pet rabbit also needs toys and chew toys.
Food & SupplementsGrass hay such as Timothy hay is an important part of your pets diet.
Commercially available rabbit food pellets.
Some occasional treats will always be welcomed by your rabbit.
If you are unsure that your rabbit has a well balanced diet, dietary supplements make a good alternative.

paper training

If your puppy is a breed that stays small and it is going to be an indoor pet, you may want to try paper training.  Place layered newspaper in the corner away from the feeding and water dishes. After meals take the puppy to the newspaper. Each time the puppy eliminates, change the top layer of newspaper and leave the bottom layer. Puppies like to go where they smell urine and feces and will start to prefer the newspaper over any other spot.
Important:
Remain consistent. Do not allow your puppy to do something one day and not the next. This will confuse him. Never leave an untrained puppy unattended in the house. Make your dog understand what is expected of him. Dogs want to please. Always praise your dog for good behavior. No form of physical punishment is as effective as praise and encouragement.
Note: Puppies that were bred by a breeder that uses the Misty Method way of whelping puppies have an easier time catching on to the concept of housebreaking. This method was started by Bev Dorma of Misty Trails Havanese / Mastiffs. Breeders who have adopted this way of whelping their puppies have reported a very high success rate.

Crate training your dog

Before you crate train, please be aware: a dog that is left in a crate all day long, gets let out in the evening after work for a few hours and put back in the crate for the night can become neurotic, destructive, unhappy and noisy. If you work all day, it is recommend that you find someone who can take your dog out for a long walk in the afternoon. If this is not possible only use the crate at night.  If you must leave your dog all day long every day and you have nobody to let the dog out during the day, you should find a room without a rug, put down Pooch Pads Reusable Housebreaking Pads, food, water and toys. You should set up the room so that the bed and food are at one end and the pee pads at the other. Spread the toys in the center of the room. Dogs are not fish. They need to find something to occupy their mind, so give your dog plenty of toys. It is said that dogs are den animals and like the crate, but even a den animal would go crazy if it was lock up all day long.
You must be willing to invest time and energy for just a few short weeks in housetraining. The effort you put in now will last for the rest of your pet's life.
The crate training method is as follows. Buy a crate and for the first 3 to 4 weeks keep your puppy in it when you are not with him. Make sure the crate is not too big. It should be large enough for the puppy's bed, but no larger. Dogs do not want to soil their bed and the use of a crate teaches them to control their urge to eliminate. You must maintain an eagle eye at all times. As soon as you see him pacing, sniffing around, and turning in circles, immediately take him outside. He is telling you "I am going to go pee pee somewhere, and this carpet looks like as good a place as any." NO, you do not have time to put on your shoes, just go.
Be patient and do not rush the little guy. He may have to go several times in one "pit stop." Give him about 10 minutes before taking him back inside. Do not play with him while you are on this mission. Let him know this is a business trip.
Make sure you take him out after every meal and play session BEFORE you put him back in his crate. Be consistent and establish a schedule. Pay attention to your puppy's  behavior so you can develop a schedule that works for you and the pup. When does your puppy naturally defecate? In the morning? 10 minutes after eating? Around bedtime? You may have to make some compromises.
Be fair to your puppy. He cannot be expected to stay alone in his crate for endless hours and not relieve himself. During your work days, you will need to have someone go to your home at least once (lunch time is good) to let the puppy out. Take him for a long walk. Your dog is not a fish and he needs something to occupy his mind.
Make sure everyone who is involved in the housebreaking process is using the same spot in the yard and the same word. Everyone should agree on the place they will take the puppy. The odor from the previous visits will cause the puppy to want to go in that spot. Use a simple word like "outside" when taking your puppy to the chosen spot. Use this word consistently and later this word will help build communication between the family and the dog. When you notice him going toward the door and you say "outside" he can say "Yup, that’s where I need to go," or, "Forget it. I am getting back up on the couch for some shut eye."

how to housebreak understanding your new puppy

Housebreaking your new puppy is going to take patience. You should begin to housebreak as soon as you bring your new puppy home. Puppies need to relieve themselves approximately six times a day. A puppy should be taken out immediately after each meal since a full stomach puts pressure on the colon and bladder.
A puppy is not physically able to control the muscle that allows him to "hold it" until he is about 12 weeks of age.  Before this time, good housebreaking routines should be practiced to avoid having your puppy urinate and defecate all over your house.  Watch for signs of urination or defecation, such as turning in circles.  Take your puppy out often.  Using a crate or confining your puppy to a small part of the house that has easy clean up floors are some ways to ensure your puppy does not urinate all over your house.  It is much harder to housebreak a puppy if he smells is urine in places you do not wish him to relief himself.
There are many different methods in which you can housebreak your pet. Whichever way you choose, it is important to understand your puppy. Dogs want to please; the trick is to make them understand what it is you want from them.
Dogs do not think the way humans do. When you are unhappy with your dog, it assumes that whatever it is doing at the exact moment you show disapproval - is the thing that is upsetting you. For example:
If your puppy relieves himself on your floor and you show your disapproval five minutes after he has committed the act, the puppy will think that the mess on the floor is bad.  He will not relate to the fact that it was the act of relieving himself on your floor that you disapprove of. The dog will eliminate, see the mess and get worried; you are now going to be unhappy. This is the reason so many dogs will relieve themselves in inappropriate places and look really guilty about it, yet they continue to do it. Dogs want to please, right?

Some owners start to think that their dog is being sneaky when really it does not fully understand what it is doing wrong. It knows the mess upsets you but does not understand that it should stop "making" the mess. To your dog, these two things:  "the mess" and "the act"are unrelated. The trick is to catch your dog in the act and make him understand. You do not need to hit your dog. The tone of your voice is enough to make the dog see you are unhappy. A firm "No! You are not  allowed to go in the house. No! No!" is all that is needed. Immediately take your dog outside to the appropriate place. Wait for your dog to go again and when and if he does, praise him. Important: Always praise your dog after he eliminates in the appropriate place.





If the dog nips once does it deserve to be put down

A lot of shelters but there dogs are a probation like period to see if it is adoptable. One excerise they do is feed the dog out of a bowl and have a fake hand try to grab the bowl. Now if the dog nips or growls or does anything aggressive they sometime just but the dog to sleep. i think that this is just plain out wrong. how could someone just do that. What i think shelters should do is if the dog does show to be aggressive then they should work with the dog for a period of time to get him out of that. Just because someone abused a dog to make it bite and then ends up being aggresive when in fact it could of been the nicest dog ever is not the dogs fault and should not be treated as being the dogs fault. Why cant people just work with a dog to help it so it can be adopted rather then just give up on the dog. Put it in a human point of few. if you are a foster parent who adores a kid but he was brought up in a bad home such as his parents doing drugs and his father  hitting people  and he has a bad temper and hit peolple also because you care for this child you seek professional help so he can change the way he is right. Well thats how it should go with a dog. Dogs have feelings to dont forget that

The myth about pitbulls

My mom hates pitbulls but yet they are my favorite dogs. People think that all pitbulls are mean and that is a myth. Pitbullsd are just like any other dogg breed  and you have to treat it like any other. I know a lot of people who have pitbulls and they are the sweetest dog ever. Back in the day the truth was that these dogs were breed to fiight. Now if you go to animal shelters you will see a lot of pibull  or pitbull mixes up for adoption. These dogs are loving energetic and caring just like any other dog and peoplle have so much hate for  them. In my opinion i think a dog can be as mean as you want it to me or as nice as you want it to be. A small pomeranian can be just as mean as a pitbull so if you are one to judge a book buy its cover then just kep your comments to your self. Pitbulls are in the bully breed catagory just like bull terriers and bull dogs so yes they need a experienced handler. Not all but most dogs have that pack leader enstinct that there is a alpha dog who runs the pack. So if you consider getting a pitbull you have to let it know who is boss or your going to have a misbehaved dog. So if you have your own opinion on these dogs then share it with me i just think pitbulls are so amazing because they can be if treated well the nicest and sweetest dogs ever. One might look really big and bad but might end up being a dog that wouldn't hurt a fly. So i got a question why do places ban these dogs they to are one to judge its book by its cover. Yes alot of dogs biting cases are pitbull related but the truth is those owners trained the dog to be like that so dont blame the dog. I just think that people with criminal records should be allowed to own a pitbull just because they are a criminal type person who can get the dog into bad things

I need help starting a pet store

I love animals and i would love to start my own pet store with an adoption center but I dont have the financial capabilites to start one. i only want to have animals up for adoption but not for resale and mostly want to focus on pet supplies. I know i would need at least 50,000 dollars to start it up with the license and 30,000 dollars for inventory i have a nice place where i can rent out which is on a busy traffic route. Can some one help please. I have a lot of experience with pets and would love to share it with pet lovers. i live in central connecticut.

NOT JUST DOGS AND CATS NEED HOMES

Ok so your child or even yourself want to get a ball python. Where would you go buy one? You would probably go to your local pet store like PETCO or PETSMART right? Well what you didnt know is that all kinds of animals need a home that dont already have one. Those baby ball pythons at petco are going to be sold in days but yet Spider one month old ball python is stuck in a shelter because no one knows he exists. Today there are many different places where you can adopt a pet from a hamster to a rat, and from a iguana to a turtle you can always find a adoption center that has these animals up for adoption .By adopting a Spider the ball python you for one him for a love adoption fee and for two spider now has a new home. People think that just dogs and cats need homes and that is not true. If you or someone you know is looking for a pet besides a dog or a cat tell him to adopt one before he steps his foot into petco. Petfinder.com is a great way to connect with animals that need a home and i have found plenty of lizards snakes and even turtles on this website. So any one who wants to adopt should really check this site out

One bad decision leads an animal homeless

When people want to get a pet they sometimes dont understand how much responsibility it is to keep one. They think a adorable like puppy is so fun to be aroundn which is true but dont realize that that little guy needs food water shelter and as much love and care as a my 5 month son. Animals need people who for one have enough money to buy what the puppy needs and for two if they have enough time to spend with the little one. So if you think well I got a ok job but its kinda hard to decide well if its to hard to decide then your not capable of keeping a pet. Dog are  a lot of work and some breeds are lot more work then otheres, but all in all even if you think you can aford a dog well thats ok to but if you can only supply low grade not veterinarian recommended products for your dog well then just say him for another family who can support the dog. In deciding you want to get as dog you have to do research on different dog breeds to because different dog breeds have different requirements. So say that you love a bullmastiff but live in a one bedroom apartment. Well for one you can love the dog all you want but the bullmastiff is not a dog that should be living in a small apartment they need lots of excerise and play time but if you do live in a one bedroom apartment then you might want to consider a smaller breed like a bull terrier if you like the bully breeds or if you want to go a little more content try a pomeranian or a cairn terrier. These dogs are smaller and live a happy apartment life. You should try out dogbreedinfo.com to researcg different not breeds and this site is full of all, kinds of information. On how this post relates to adopting a pet in need is that alot of these animals come from a home on for one cant handle the dog or for two dont have enough time to spend with the dog so in return the dog is not well behaved. I have known quite a few people who have gotten dogs that they thought they knew a lot about but end up returningh the dog back to where they got it from. So people even just leave the down behind with no food or water when they move out of where ever they were living. So the one thing i ask you do before getting a pet is to do your own research before getting one and for two please a adopt a homeless pet.
Does anyone know any rare breeds they would like to share?

Why we all should adopt

Ever since I was a child i have always loved animals and nature. Growing up wasnt easy by any means, not having any parents and moving from foster home to foster home. I turned to nature and animals as a revenue to get away from what i was going through. having been beaten and abused, I always would just let it go because after a while you would just get use to it. So in the matter of why adopting is the right way to go when finding a pet. i can truly say that shelter pets and homless ones dont have the greatest life either. With millions of animals without homes today, the numbers are increasing giving the animals a wrong fate. To be put down. There isnt a lot a room anymore at shelters because people cant afford to buy an animal and they rather chose a breeder. Well the truth is that people can afford adoption for pets because for one the fee is quite low  out beating the high price you pay when buying from a breeder. Most people want to get a puppy so they can raise it but buy from a breeder. With millions of homeless animals you can adopt from a large range, from young to older and to elderly there is always a pet for someone. i always go into adoption centers and i  wish i owned my own place because i see so many loving and caring dogs and cats then anyone has seen before. i own a dward rabbit but my landlord doesn't know so. I did in fact adopt a 4 month old female rabbit and she is so wonderful. Another way you can help save pets without homes is by a animal rescue organization. These pets have had the worst life ever. Either they have been in floods or hurricanes or have been saved from a abusive household. If your just reading this post and you cant even you think you cant help out and save a homeless animal well think again. The ASPCA has monthly donations when just three cents a day can save an pet in need. Well what i would like to know from you is any ideas on how I can start a pet supply store and adoption center with no alot of money i am unemployed and have a 5 month old son but I am truely at heart a animal lover any suggestions?